07.21.08
More sewing stuff…still no interesting knitting…
This is my maybe my favorite thing made so far:
I was in one of our two local local quilting stores (two! yet we have no yarn store) and saw that they had two different comics-themed fabrics: one very busy print with the “POW! Aaargh! To be continued…” and one with panels on it and I thought of Lionel and Heidi and making a Comic-Con outfit for Sophie.
Originally, I thought I’d make some super-girly type pinafore dress with satin ribbon accents just for a little bit of irony with the generally violent action in the fabric and use the only woman in the panels as a centered pocket for the dress. Because I love pockets.
This:
was the proto-type for the comic dress, cutting out a full circle for the skirt and with the girly satin ribbon accents…but I didn’t leave enough room for the panel to be a pocket, and well, I started thinking I’d like something else and did some different sketches.
I would have liked the straps I made to have ended up wider, so I’ll just have to cut wider strips if/when I make this again, since I made my own double fold bias tape.
I made template pieces and wrote down some of the process, so if I get around to putting together a tutorial, I’ll update this entry and post a link to it.
I ended up using a plain black cotton as well because in my mind the busy fabric as a whole dress looked too busy and would have overwhelmed the pocket panel, which is my favorite part. Unfortunately, I decided that for sure kind of last minute and bought the black from WalMart, and it was so thin in comparison to the heavily printed comic fabric that I knew I’d have to line everything, which made the whole dress a bit heavier and less drapey. But worked out in my favor, since instead of lining it as a separate inner dress style o’ fing since I wasn’t completely sure how to do that, I just sewed the lining fabric and the panels right sides together and turned them right side out, which while it made for bulky seams it meant less finishing of edges. Whee.
Anyway, so that was fun, and I really enjoyed making it.
I do eventually need to get over my fear of patterns. To that end, I went on a shopping spree–
(listed in no particular order)
Simplicity 3774 (inspired by Rachael and to be made in this fabric from Reprodepot, which must have sold out as it isn’t listed on the site anymore)
McCalls 2213 (various fabrics already stashed)
Plus in the queue are oodles of stuff from the books I already have, that I’ve put in a sewing queue photoset on flickr so I can access it while I’m out and see how much fabric/ which notions are required.
I’ve started with the Anna Mini Dress from Amy Butler as everyone says the directions are very thorough (and they are right, the directions do seem pretty clear, well illustrated and explained, at least at this point) and I like the simplicity of the shape.
I have thus far been a little confused by the sizing issue though. On the pattern packet, it defines the sizes, and I picked the xs size since the measurements of bust 32.5-waist 26-hips 36 most closely matched my 34-25-35, but when I cut out and sewed together the panel pieces, it didn’t look right.
I asked a few people and the general consensus is that the yoke would change it a bit and that yes, her patterns seem to be cut a bit big. I measured the dress at the narrowest point and found it to be 17 wide, i.e. 34 inch waistline, which is a heck of a lot of ease.
Are all patterns like this, or is every maker different with how much ease they put in?
It makes me miss the knitting pattern standard directions of “size x to fit bust measurement z, finished measurements of garment are y” so you can decide yourself if that’s the right amount of ease, or depending on the material, calculate negative ease if need be.
Anyway, so I mocked up the dress in muslin, just to be sure I wasn’t fussing over nothing:
and I definitely want to take it in a bit.
Nick and I will be attempting to make a dress form later so I can experiment with fitting, and Heidi has suggested almond shaped darts to tame that poofy small of the back area or just making the “damn belt” –certainly using the belt would continue the gathered material theme that is at the yoke top between the breasts, a detail I quite like because it makes them look all lovely and pillowy, and would fit with the 70s feel of the design and fabric choice (I just love that fabric, and since the end result will look so much like a 60s/70s air stewardess, I’ll be using some little airplane buttons from my Mom’s stash as the closure) not to mention make it more versatile, comfort and shape-wise, what with adding yet another sedentary hobby to my list of butt-width expanding habits.
But still, I’m gonna be stubborn and try to make the waist shaping more pronounced. So if you never see this project mentioned again, you’ll know it didn’t work out.
Linda Peck said,
July 22, 2008 at 7:59 am
POW! What a great little dress! You look like you are having fun with your sewing! Happy Summer!
Grannie Linda
Terri said,
July 23, 2008 at 9:57 am
wow - you and your mad sewing skilz!!! That’s interesting about the different pattern makers/designers having different amounts of ease. I never would have thought about that. In knitting, yes, but in sewing, I would tend to assume that whatever size the pattern says (i.e. your measurements) the garment would come out to fit it properly.
I just had a quick run through your flickr sewing queue and there are some really great projects in there! I can’t wait to see what you make yet.
p.s. I got my “man tag” in the mail the other day and it’s great for biking!
Cindy said,
July 23, 2008 at 10:46 am
Don’tcha hate making a muslin??!! I know I do.
I know it’s the right thing to do but I hate it, because I want to get right to the real thing.
It’s just like swatching.
Hate it. And besides, swatches lie. At least muslins are better about that.
Could be that’s why I have so many unfinished projects around here. No muslins. No swatching.
June said,
July 23, 2008 at 7:36 pm
The Sandra Betzina book on fitting explains how to measure flat pattern pieces to figure out what needs altering before you make a muslin. Might be worth checking out!
Hilari said,
July 24, 2008 at 10:59 pm
1st - i want one of those superhero frocks! after much discussion @ work, we decided my superhero calling is The Changetress. I have the ability to heat up and project spare change. I can enlarge it and make it spin to knock over bad guys. And yes, I do have a backstory…I was homeless and beggin for change downtown and someone slipped me an ancient coin. As I studied the coin I received a strong hit of electricity from the live wire I was sitting on to keep warm and I was imbued with the ancient magical powers over all change. Now I fight crime with my sidekick, Coin Purse.
Hmmm. I may want to see about filling up some of that apparent spare time I seem to have.
2nd - your sewing rocks!
3rd - your muslin gives you a polygamy-wife-in-her-dainties look.
CC said,
July 25, 2008 at 7:44 am
Happy Birthday to you!
Hope you have a wonderful celebration on your special day.
The Spinning Group down here send their Best Wishes too.
Blow out all those Candles, now…
Cathy
Marin said,
July 30, 2008 at 12:40 pm
OK… there are just too many good fabrics. You’re driving me to sew.
And happy birthday!
Ande said,
August 4, 2008 at 9:15 am
Look at you go! Wow! I hate when patterns don’t fit and I don’t do a muslin but I do measure the important places for me. Like shoulder to bust point length and hips. If I was going to sew something out of super expensive fabric I could do a muslin. Let me just tell you how proud I am of you!
Supercalifragalisticawesome!
Ang said,
August 9, 2008 at 8:36 am
No to the waist darts - it works against the shape of the dress - but that is just my opinion!!!!
Patterns suck. That is why I have quit using them…. They are usually only good for ideas. Commercial patterns (mcCalls, Butterick, vogue etc) are just as bad. They call it a size 8 so you think oh hey I’m a size 8 but really a size 8 is a size 0 - not even close to the real sizes!!! Very confusing…
I admire your determination. I think that project would have landed in the garbage can a long time ago at my house.
Katie said,
August 10, 2008 at 6:55 pm
Commercial patterns are still made to the original mid-20th century sizes, before there was size inflation to make us all feel good about ourselves. However, measure the critical parts to make sure that they won’t be too small, and make sure the length from neck to waist, waist to hip, and so on are correct. You can’t shorten those lengths once they are cut, if there is not a waist seam.
Then, make the darned thing too big, and keep taking in the parts that need it until you have a good fit. Skip the muslin, and use long stitches until you have the size right. I have a friend who does this and makes all her clothes, and they look like she spends thousands at the top designers for them.
You dresses are really cute, too!
Terri said,
August 25, 2008 at 6:31 am
where are you Wendy?! Did you get wrapped up in your duct tape dress form, never to be freed??
Susan said,
August 31, 2008 at 10:12 pm
Wendy? Weeeeeeendy??? Where are you???