07.08.08

More sewing, some spinning, some dyeing

Posted in natural dyeing, sewing, spinning at 11:25 pm by wendy

I was talking to my Grammy on the phone and realised I haven’t posted the apron kit I finished, or the disaster of a reversible wrap skirt.

I’m very happy with the apron, although of course it’s not perfect. I had some trouble easing in the ruffle, I think because my seam allowances are always so inconsistent. I don’t think there was originally supposed to be any easing in needed.

(click the pic to view more in the set)

apron tied at the front

The pockets came in handy when I wore it during the dyeing workshops at BSG for keeping my tissues in for my constantly dribbling schnozzle.

For one reason or another, I’m fascinated with aprons lately. They’re not too intimidating to make, and I like the pretty vintage lines. And, since I’m still learning and trying to be better and more consistent in my sewing, they’re a good exercise. I’ll be doing some more, from this book A is for Apron.

But this:

I like the way it looks heregappin' at the backbubble backside

was supposed to be a reversible wrap skirt. But it’s awful. I love the fabrics, but together, the bubble fabric is just too thick and the skirt has no drape. So, I’m going to plan out some pockets for it and give it to a friend up here as an apron. Ze circle of sewing and apronage, she continues.

I haven’t sewn anything since that devastating blow to my fragile sewer’s self-esteem.

No, it’s just been hot, and I disassembled the sewing portion of the room to take the table to BSG and haven’t reset everything up. I’ll do it tonight, maybe plan out a couple projects.

On spinning:

July 5th was the start of the Tour de France, and I figured I’d do the Tour de Fleece this year again. There’s actually two different groups–I love Katherine’s philosophy of it, but I also joined the newer organiser’s Ravelry group because it was there and easy to do.

Other than that, the only official joining of all this is in my head, since my goals are loose and vague and don’t necessarily conform to the rules well. Essentially, my goal is to finish up the projects I’ve already started, to put a serious dent in my stash, and to try to do something different and improve on skills outside my usual comfort range. So, really, I’m just going to use the group thought of the Tour as an impetus to be a little more spinning-focused this month, and a little more goal oriented and end product-minded than usual.

I had three goals last year and only completed one, and I’ve already failed out this year by not doing any spinning on Sunday.

But I’ve got a darn good reason.
Nick and I had the World’s Worst Day of Fishing–seriously, we got up at 5 am and went to Trout Lake, which was gorgeous, where I used my early birthday present (a great whippy rod and new reel setup from Nick) to not catch any d@mn fish, but a lot of weeds. And occasionally reeds. I was a danger to myself and others (as long as they were not fish).

Nick was equally skunked, with only two nibbles between us and again, no fish.

This was our first time at Trout Lake, and we didn’t realise that at this time of the year, it is really only set up for boat fishing. There’s a relatively weed-free area by the boat ramp, but that’s about it.

It was still relatively early and cool, so we went to breakfast and then fished at Greenhorn. There I managed to really spaaz in my casting, catching lots of branches and logs and reeds and more lakebottom. I had no idea how lazy I had become with the Zebco reels, which are pushbutton, one handed dealies, but needlessly complicated inside and snag like the dickens and can be fiddly to fix.

We left, went home and napped.

Because that is how we deal with disappointment in this house.

We snuggle up in a tangle of blankets and dogs, each with an iPod earbud in and fall asleep listening to some Terry Pratchett book we’ve heard a bazillion times before.

We woke up, we puttered.
We thought about going to see Wall-E at the Broadway Twin, but I didn’t want those stupid fish to think they’d won so we went to Greenhorn again. And fished and fished (and actually, can you call it fishing if there are apparently no freakin’ fish involved?) and snagged more reeds and Nick lost his second lure of the day and I lost my first, and then, since I’d just spent the last twenty minutes carefully retrieving that lure from the reeds and untangling all the line I’d fed out to it…I flopped onto the bank crosslegged like a little kid about to tantrum cry in utter frustration and said, “f#ck it, I’m done.”

So we went to the grocery and video store, got Death at a Funeral, Beast with a Billion Backs and The Golden Compass, a six pack of beer and a frozen pizza and slunk home. We drowned our sorrows with pizza and beer and zany comedy and dealt with the next morning’s headache as the logical aftermath of the World’s Worst Day of Fishing (Hopefully Ever).

So obviously, there was no room for spinning in there.

Anyway, though, I turned the silk top I dyed during the Nancy Finn workshop:

fibers dyed during rainbow dyeing workshop

into a bobbin full of singles while waiting in the mechanic’s office while the wagon had its 100,000 mile service:

the copper-verdigris silk spun into a single

And then, put into a center pull ball, I navajo plied it into a teeny little skein: 2 oz., 124 yards, approx. 14 wpi. I knew I wanted to spin it with texture, so I hadn’t been too careful about consistency when spinning the single, because originally I thought I might do a coil yarn, spinning the silk single over a some fine thread.

But then, when I finally finished spinning up the dark BFL Nick bought me from Copper Moose way back when I first started spinning,

chunky worsted dark bfl 3 ply

I ended up with a spare ball of singles and no other balls to finish plying it up with as a 3 ply yarn. So I navajo plied it.

But first, I used some leftover singles from another project.

My texture and consistency was all over the place, but I loved the way it looked, all the unexpected coils. (I wasn’t pinching back the twist, just doing it one handed. Oops, that’s what working from memory using a technique you only know the theory of and not the practice will get you–and not logically transferring process elements…) Then I did it on the BFL.

first attempts at navajo ply

I liked the texture so much I figured I’d do it with the silk. But I fired up youtube and watched this video in the interim and pinched back the twist and…blech.

navajo plied silk from workshop

Boring.

It just looks like bad spinning, badly plied.
Which I guess it is, really, but I had envisioned a much more interesting effect and shouldn’t have changed the game plan. Kind of ironic I suppose, that an impulsive change in process created a yarn I dislike for its mundane predictability revealing its poor textural planning in an uninteresting way.

And of course, this ordinary 3 ply thing was the effect to be expected by controlling the twist: the elimination of coils, so why the heck did I do it?

I guess I just got caught up in practicing this new-to-me technique and forgot about what I had wanted and envisioned as the end product. I don’t know what I’ll do with the yarn now.

Another disappointing aspect is that the color seems to have fled from it. Such strong fantastic colors in the single, even though plied to preserve the blocks of color, have become nearly pastel.

Perhaps a combination of some color lost during the wash to finish the yarn and the 3 ply breaking up the way the light reflects from the yarn? I had thought it was the opposite however, where the smoother the yarn, the lighter it appears because of the greater surface reflection…ah, I dunno.

Speaking of disappointments in color, I did a lightfastness test on the natural dye samples (well, pieces, at any rate) and turmeric is definitely not lightfast.

light sensitivity test

Unfotunately, I’d already wound out, mordanted, and plunked a whole bunch of yarn into the turmeric dye pot:

turmeric dyed whiteys

Turmeric dyed dark BFL

If you click on the really yellow one, it has notes as to all the samples’ fiber contents.

It’s a bummer, but oh well. Some will be overdyed in the indigo vat, including that skein of dark BFL. I’ll either figure out a usage for these yarns that will take the light sensitivity into account, and/or just deal with the future fading. Fortunately, yellow is not that hard to get in the world of natural dyeing, even such a strong lovely orange yellow. I’ll have to plant the weld seeds I got, and of course, I have some osage dust. Different, perhaps, but better in the lightfast category.

On the knitting front…meh. Knitting is boring.

04.29.07

Natural Dyeing & KCS, etcetera etcetera etcetera…

Posted in books, natural dyeing, random, spinning at 10:02 pm by wendy

I blame Yul Brynner for my inability to say “etcetera” just once like a normal person.

First some etcetera:

eveningin.jpg
A picture of a quiet evening in.Mom would love this pic, and really, it’s thanks to her that this pic happened. When she took Belu for the week because we had foster dogs coming out of our ears and Belu was seriously PO’d, Crivvie and the Weasel really worked out any issues they had over ownership of Mom/Grandma and with each other. We miss her everyday.

Ooh, that turned into a bit of a downer, sorry.

Um, here’s something that’s totally boring except for one person:

Knitters Coffee Swap Qs:
1. Whole bean or ground?

whole bean please. We have a grinder and we know how to use it.


2. Fully-loaded or decaf?

Caffeine is my bestestestestestest friend.


3. Regular or flavored?

Regular.


4. How do you drink your coffee?

Usually with 1% milk because it’s what’s in the fridge, but half and half when I’m out and about, black when we’re out.


5. Favorite coffee ever?

Hmmmm…not sure. The Wild Divine roast from a local merchant (Divine Madman Coffee–619-339-5379, they specialise in certified organic, shade grown, fair trade coffee and donate 10% to a local wildlife rescue) sticks out in my mind.

I get a 2 shot 12 oz. mocha in the morning before work because milk+chocolate+caffeine= perfect morning meal. ;)


6. Are you fussy about your coffee or will any old bean do?

I’m not an expert. I won’t pretend to be some dilettante. But, um, some coffees taste manky, some don’t. I generally like something in the mid category–not french roast, not a mild breakfast type. So, mid acid, mid roast. I’m a moderate in nearly everything. ;)


7. Favorite treats to have with your coffee?

I like lemon bars too, good accent, but um, most times it’s a donut or blogs with my coffee. Depends on if it’s a day off or not.


8. Anything else about your coffee preferences?

Local roasters rock!


9. Yarn/fiber you love?

It’s possible that I love everything and everyone.


10. Yarn/fiber you hate?

But maybe I hate nylon.


11. What’s on your needles?

A bottom up V-neck stash buster. Wear Everywhere Pullover in linen. Map of the World afghan. Baby socks x 2. Socks for me. Um, there’s more but what, I can’t remember. Ooh, a Sherwood in Pima Silk.


12. Favorite colors?

Blue and green (but not teal ;)) Red and yellow, like flames… Not really keen on pink or purple.


13. Allergies?

Cats (most). That’s about it. I don’t expect I’ll get sent anything dipped in pymethrin, so I figure I don’t need to bring that up.

14. Anything you really love, really don’t like, or just need to get off your chest?

Underpants!

So here’s the natural dyeing thing:

Carrot Tops & Copper Sulfate!

So, I took 3 skeins of the Henry’s Attic Inca Organic Cotton in Ecru, Sage & Desert, weighed them, scoured them (that’s where you fill up a big pot with water and soap and boil the shit out of it, then rinse it. Okay, maybe don’t boil it. Whatever your end purposes speak to) mordanted with alum (5% weight of goods as recommended by Michelle Whipplinger of Earthues for cotton) and eventually got around to getting some carrot tops with which to dye them.

carrottops.jpg
I swung by too early for a farmer’s market in La Mesa, when they were just setting up but asked a vendor if she could save tops for me, so when I came back and bought several bunches I got 3 times more the tops–in fact, I ended up with a 1:1 ratio of WOG (weight of goods) cotton to carrot tops, which was just what I wanted to try.I put half of them in an enamel pot with enough water to cover and put them on high heat. When the carrot tops already in had wilted and browned out, I added more water and more carrot tops.

img_2823.jpg

Eventually, I had something like this:

p3310418.JPG

In smell and color it was just like my dandelion reduction (which I never used and never blogged) so I suspect a similarity of results could be had. A Handbook of Dyes from Natural Materials by Anne Bliss is a great resource–its only drawback is perhaps that it is organised by dyer’s name– not color, material, lightfastness, or whatever criteria might be most important to you.

I love it because it does consider lightfastness and subjects the end products to that objective test. Surprisingly, this is an important end step that many natural dye resources gloss over (or regard seemingly indifferently).

Anyway, it looked like tea when I dipped a cup in.

p3310420.JPG
Alone, carrot tops on a material mordanted with alum make a strong yellow with a very high lightfast rating.

But add copper sulfate (blue vitriol) and you get a green:

p3310422.JPG

Unfortunately, I forgot to document the weight of the blue vitriol/copper sulfate I added. I just poured until I liked the color of the dyepot. D’oh!

Here are the end results, after simmering and cooling, simmering and cooling. (perhaps a two day thing, I let it get hot and simmer for a while, shut it off, went to bed, and later the next day turned it on and up again and let it simmer/boil again and cool off when I had free home time). Sorry, good documentation would have specific times.

I didn’t exhaust the color in the pot. So far, in my experience, that doesn’t seem possible in natural dyes. But I was happy with the color I saw in the pot (my eyes and brain as a dyer have managed to do an automatic adjustment of the number of shades reduced to see the end color between dye pot and dried and expected washed/rinsed product. I am such a schmartypantz.)

img_2829.jpg

So, from the top to the bottom.

Natural white (ecru)

Natural white (ecru) overdyed with carrot tops and copper sulfate

Sage

Sage overdyed with carrot tops and copper sulfate

Desert

Desert overdyed with carrot tops and copper sulfate

I let the dyed goods boil, washed them in a warm water machine with normal detergent, and put them through a hot dryer… I treated them roughly because I want them to be bomb/babyproof.

So, the undyed cotton is softer and more unprocessed than the dyed. But there it is.

And also, to prove I’m still doin’ it:

img_2830.jpg
Here’s 2.1 oz, 184 yards of 2 ply, averages out to 1401 ypp, and sportweight. Corriedale roving from Dove & Jager (sheep names) in Pennsylvania and handpainted by Sue of Love Interwoven. I have no idea what I’m going to do with this but I enjoyed spinning and plying it and that’s what matters.

BTW, Love Interwoven is a new company in San Diego. I love talking to Sue. She’s my new Mary-Kay.

;P

Anyway, she’s become a Louet dealer too and is working on blending custom batts and handpainted rovings. Expect great things to be uploaded soon. But until then…she’s taking phone orders. Her prices are fair for the market, you can call and order yourself some schweet spinning surprises.