12.25.06
Posted in Tutorials, socks, stupefied at 12:02 am by wendy
Wait, wrong holiday?
The “benefit” of sharing our house with wee four legged savages is the occasional surreal treat of stepping on an eyeball in the fog of a groggy morn. It was startling realistic at 0530 in the morning peeking from between my toes.
I believe it came from one of the many mangled stuffed toys around here. If I find the poor thing, I’ll make it an eyepatch.
No, probably not.
On a cute, not creepy note:
A wee short row toe, which became quite shortly thereafter
A ridiculous pair of baby socks in one of my tidepool colorways, with a ruffle like a sea anenome.
They look very goofy and very Dr. Suessish-shaped, because of the ribbing pulling it in at the arch and ankles–I wanted them to be unkickoffable. The sole of the foot looks like a peanut because of this, with the short row toe and the short row heel and the ribbing in between.
I used some store bought baby socks as a sizing guide, the feet measure 4 inches long, with a circumference of 3.5 inches, although the ribbing flexes them out to wider.
I used 22 grams of sportweight yarn (Louet Gems Opal, 1,024 yds/lb). About 50 yards of yarn if my math is right…so definitely something to eat up the leftovers…
So, it’s not so much a pattern as a recipe, if you’d like it here’s the pdf. The short row toe hoopla takes up most of the space, but don’t let that turn you off a short row toe. Seriously: favorite.sock.method.ever.
I also made the short row toe thing a pdf so it would be printable without all the other crud of my blog on it. It is here.
BTW–this post was composed and posted using a plug-in I was twigged to by KnitSteph. The editor is awesome and I can set my categories from here. Freaking cool. Go Mozilla!
Merry Christmas & Happy Monday!
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12.12.06
Posted in Tutorial Tuesday, Tutorials, knitting, socks at 12:08 am by wendy
So, one thing I’ve learned lately is doing a short row heel, without holes. It started of course with Wendy’s knitty.com toes tutorial. But I guess I just didn’t get it, I kept making a holey toe. After ripping and reknitting and ripping and reknitting, I figured it out and thought I’d share it. Because I know I’m not alone in this.
But of course, Google shows me a slew of results that looks like they might have helped me out. But nobody did it the way I did it, right? Hermmm….Nope. She does. Well, sort of. Not exactly. But her pictures are excellent and her method works for her.
But I took pictures, and wrote down directions, and made the world’s cruddiest tutorial video (dog interrupted) so dang it! I wanna do it. But the bottom line is: pick up and knit the wraps from the purl direction, from the front of the stitch, from right to left, however you’d like to phrase it, and purl the wraps that same way…you won’t get holes, and while my sides don’t look exactly the same on both sides, they look close enough and no holes, so I’m happy.
Here’s the long version though:
Step 1:
With waste yarn and a crochet hook, chain several more stitches than half the total number you’ll be using in a round for your sock.
Meaning, say I want to knit a sock that’s 42 stitches around. So I chain 21 stitches (half of 42 for those math wizards out there. Also, it’s easier if this “half of total” number is divisible by three, you’ll see why in bit) plus three, four, five more stitches, for no more reason than insurance that I have all the little back loops I want and then some to choose from.
What do I mean by back loops? These are back loops:
The same view without my awful Photoshop interference:
The other side, the smooth side looks like this:
(If all this is buggin’ your eyes out, you can always cast on stitches with a contrast yarn, knit a row, then change to the yarn you really want to use, knit across and go to
step 3, where you’ll purl across that row and then begin
step 4.)
Step 2:
Pick up and knit those back loops, picking up and knitting half as many as the total stitches in the sock round as thou heart desires. (For our example, 21.)(Pick up and knit just means you insert your needle into a back loop, wrapped your yarn around the needle in a knitwise [clockwise, left to right] direction, then moved on and repeated the process with the next back loops in just the same way.)
Okely-dokely?So, after you’ve picked up and knit through the back loops, you’ll see something like this:
When you turn it around, it’ll look something like this:
Step 3:
At this point, pick up a second double point needle and purl across that row of picked up stitches. And thusly, the short row madness begins.
Step 4:
For this example, we have 21 stitches.
So, this next step, on the knit side, is to knit across 20 stitches. (If you are using a different number, say, 36, than make this number less one, as in 35)
Bring your yarn between the needles to the front, as if you were going to purl the next stitch.
Slip the next stitch purlwise. (from the front, from the purl direction, from right to left, however you prefer to phrase it.)
Turn your work, slip the just slipped stitch (so with all this slipping, the stitch is never twisted, the orientation/directions of the legs of the stitch does not change) from left to right needle, and move the yarn so the yarn is now held in front of the work. You have now wrapped the stitch and are ready to purl 19 stitches across the row, or rather, stopping with just one stitch left on the left hand needle.
Step 5:
Having purled across the row to the stitch before the last slipped and wrapped stitch, bring yarn from the front of the work to the back, as if you were going to knit the next stitch. Instead, slip it purlwise. Turn the work, and slip the just slipped stitch back to the right needle and bring the yarn from the front to the back, wrapping the slipped stitch.
Knit across to one stitch before the last slipped & wrapped stitch (18 sts for our example) and repeat the yarn movement, slipping and wrapping as outlined in Step 4.
Repeat steps 4 & 5, each time wrapping the stitch before the last wrapped stitch, (wrapping is the word to concisely describe that moving the yarn, slipping & yarn moving process) and you will notice a lovely wedge forming, with the wraps around the base of the slipped stitches on the needle:
Repeat these steps 4&5 until two-thirds of the original stitch number have been slipped and wrapped, that is to say, one third on each side. For this example, that means 7 slipped and wrapped stitches on each side, with 7 perfectly normal, perfectly innocent looking stitches in the middle. If your number is 36, it will mean 12 slipped and wrapped stitches on each side and 12 in the middle.
You will have the same number of slipped and wrapped stitches on the right and left of your sexy stockinette toe wedge and be ready to knit on the right side.
YOU WILL. I COMMAND THIS FOR THE SAKE OF THIS TUTORIAL. There are pictures below these steps of working double wrapped stitches, but for the sake of seeing direction clarification, you might find them helpful.)
Knit across to slipped and wrapped stitch. With yarn held in back, insert needle tip from purl direction, first through the stitch on needle then (still from purl direction) into the wrap laying down around the base of that stitch. Knit these two together as one stitch. Bring yarn to front, slip the next stitch purlwise, and turn the work (the just slipped stitch now has two wraps). Bring yarn to front and slip the just slipped stitch from the left to right needle.
Purl across the work. The first wrapped stitch you come to, insert your needle tip from the purl direction into the stitch on the needle, then down into the wrap, again from the purl direction, just like Step 6 but this time your yarn is held in front. Purl the wrap and the slipped stitch together as one.
Bring yarn to back of work, slip next stitch, and turn work.
Slip just slipped stitch to right needle and bring the yarn to the back in preparation for knitting across the row to next wrapped (now double wrapped) stitch.
Knit across row to double wrapped slipped stitch.
To avoid holes, here’s how I pick up the double wrapped slipped stitches:
I pick up that slipped stitch which is on the needle, and then I insert my right needle tip from the purl direction into the wraps laying around its base and spear them with the left hand needle to knit them all three together through the front:
After knitting the two wraps and slipped stitch together through the front, or from the purl direction, bring the yarn to the front of the work, slip the next stitch, turn the work.
Step 9:
(on purl side) Bring the yarn to the front, slip the just slipped stitch, and purl across to the double wrapped stitch. Insert needle tip from right to left/from purl direction/through front of all three stitches and purl all three together.
This picture has a single wrap being lifted to be purled with the slipped stitch, instead of two wraps, but it is essentially the same ol’ thang:
Bring yarn to rear of work, slip next stitch, turn work.
Repeat steps 8 & 9 until all stitches have been worked.
Now you should have a really cool toe cup in your hands, with half of your total desired sock stitches on a needle, and the other half held at bay by your provisional cast on.
Unzip the the crochet cast on or otherwise undo your temporary cast on to get to those active loops, knitting across them, and placing a marker to indicate the beginning/end of the round, joining them to their long lost brethren on the other needle(s).
If you have a tendency toward hole-iness in these matters, you may wish to m1 or increase by knitting in the front and back of a stitch or otherwise create a stitch at each side between the two halves and knit the extra stitch together with another stitch from the toe halves.
From there on you’re on you’re own.
You can go wild with stockinette stitch and then when you are two inches shy (this number depends on the gauge you are knitting at, measure the depth of your own toe cap and plug that number in where the “two inches” was) of the length you want the foot of your sock to be and just repeat the short row toe process for your heel.
Then you can do stockinette stitch up to where you’d like to start the ribbing. Dead easy mindless knitting sock, and there should be no running out of yarn if you make sure you don’t use more than half of what you have available.
I hope this helps someone save some time, somewhere. If you’ve spotted mistakes, give me a shout so I can fix it/them, por favor.
Also, if anyone can reccommend a text editor for blogging–I love almost everything about Wordpress except for this crappy text editor. Rich text editor keeps deleting my spaces and paragraph breaks, and it seems like every time I fix something, something else will pop up that I didn’t even put in. And when I go to fix that, previous formatting gets lost. I use the rich text editor and tweak it in the html screen, and between the two…I’m seriously ******.
I just wasted a ton of time deleting strong tags. And I dread to hit the update button because I know it’s just going to get worse. The formatting of this entry is ridiculous and barely readable. I’m sorry. And why are strong tags in a post affecting my sidebar?
I give up on this for tonight. Maybe I’ll rewrite it in blogger and repost it. This has just become a farce, as I’ve spent more time trying to fix the formatting and having it get worse every time than I did in writing the post, and I have to get up at 5.30am to work, so that’s it. Ya basta.
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01.25.06
Posted in Spaazlicious, Tutorials at 9:54 am by wendy
Saturday we went up to the Oceanside Library to spin (well Nancy and I spun, and Cristina spun, and Jessica wowed a roomful of fifty knitters by knitting her Rogue sleeves two at a time) and we had a good time hanging out and watching the miracle of three or so people teaching fifty how to knit. And a woman who thought the perfect place to change her baby was Right In Front Of Some Grossed Out Young Craftsters.
Yeah, right, they’re all just parts, and we all got ‘em, and we all sh!t our pants once upon a time and may do so again in the future but really. Ew.
I’m hoping it’s not a trend, but once again, I unearthed my wallet in the after events.
A little bit at Black Sheep: Brittany cable needles which I love, but I’ve already lost them, and the bag they came in, and the bag the shop put them in, almost the instant I came home. A new level in my levels of dumbassédness. So they are not pictured in this Obligatory Post Shopping Pic.
A little bit at Noble Knits (the owner is the one who made the knitting event at Oceanside possible, with fifty gift bags of starter kits from Plymouth. Major props for that.) I had to buy the tape measure with the car and the stoplight because…um. Never mind.
A bunch of smelly stuff at a the Magic Hands Workshop booth at the little weekend market they have in Encinitas. Yummy smelling stuff, but I could do without some of the schtick. That’s what’s nice about ordering from Nancy. No schtick, all… never mind.
An IK back issue I bought for the “Aran Muff” (no, not really, I just like saying it) and Teva Durham’s sexy renaissance tunic, the gansey layette and some other patterns with potential at Common Threads. They have reorganised and it looks awesome (it’s still by color though mostly, bummer) and their Manos is priced below retail.
And a skein of Plymouth’s Baby Alpaca Grande because every time I see it, I pick it up and marvel at how soft it is. And while I know I could spin a soft bulky weight alpaca two-ply…I have one fingerless cabled mitt nearly done with almost no knitting time. Almost instant gratification. Knitting On the Beach is a nice little shop–she has a cabled cashmere yarn in three colors, which speaks of real commitment to me. 
And then I fell off the wagon again yesterday and bought more damn buttons (naturally dyed and carved from the dropped nuts of rare indonesian trees–which ones, I can’t remember), Bush’s Knitting Vintage Socks which I bought for the different toes really, and another skein of Silky Wool. I can’t seem to stop. Oddballs galore. Lakeside Knits is having a sale on books, 20% off, but only until the end of the month.
Amidst the shopping madness, I have been doing somewhat constructive things. School has started, and I think I’ll be crashing some classes to try and get the last stray I want on my schedule.
I wetted out some stuff for dyeing. Annoyed by my dinky little aluminum stockpot from Target which has served me faithfully for two years, I went to twenty thrift shops looking for a huge stockpot at a good price. Since when did an enamel 20 qt stockpot become worth $70 used? In frustration, I went to Costco, for other household crap we “need” and snagged my new best friend:
Last one at La Mesa, $29.99. I can fit two and a half pounds of fiber in there and it beats the hell out of a $70 stockpot or the throwaway aluminum roasting pans bought at a 99¢ store. Although those are a handy low investment easy cleanup dyeing vessel too, just remember to recycle.
Although you can see in that pic that there probably is room for one more one pound dyeing hank if I planned my dye distribution right. You need enough water to keep the hanks floating, or at least not compressed on each other, swollen with liquid. You want to set the dye, but not cook the wool, it can be a fine line if you overload it.
These are sort of just random notes for three different tutorials I’ll be putting on LdL sometime next month. Kettle, crockpot, and oven roasting. 3 different styles, 3 different results, although your technique within these also changes the outcomes greatly, o’ course.
Materials used for all of them though is here:
I buy my dyeing supplies from Dharma Trading Co.. They even sell syringes for injecting dye inside these mondo dye skeins–very handy, since more handling can equal muddling of colors. I also use the syringes to help be more exact with the dye solution amounts for consistency.
A candy thermometer is handy for avoiding a boiling and keeping track of where the heat is at.
Ph papers are probably my favorite time/worry saver. Testing to make sure I’m at the right acidity (4) makes sure I’m not wasting time trying to get dye to set into something that’s too alkaline, or that it’s not so acid that the dye hits only on the surface and doesn’t even penetrate. Just a glug or so of vinegar in a bucket, fill it up with lukewarm water, test the ph, then lay the protein fiber or yarn on the surface and gently press down. I use those industrial laundry buckets (well rinsed of course) because you can wet out about four or five pounds of stuff in one. I get the buckets from Greyhound Adoption Center (animal rescue groups go through laundry like crazy, big surprise), but you can buy them or ask your own local to save them for you and trade them a bunch of ratty towels. They almost always need towels.
Look! A bucket!
And a skein of Le Bouffon waiting to be pushed down into a stockpot for wetting out as well. I think it’s purely pretty.
I usually let stuff wet out for twenty four hours. It depends on the fiber. Silk takes frickin’ forever and when you are dyeing you really need to spread it out and open to let the dyes penetrate and use a strong concentration. At least, in my experience.
Having the bucket in the corner means I pick stuff out, load the crockpot, kettle, & roasting pan and can do the dyeing little by little as it is convenient.
You don’t want to leave stuff too long because it can get funky, but if it’s cool like it has been, I think I strung the dyeing out over three or four days in little bursts of messiness.
Anyway.
In the pans, spread out the yarn or fiber and paint it as you prefer. I squeeze out most of the water and let the dye solution (a super concentrated dye solution measured out into a measured amount of water) swell up the fiber. Repeat the pattern, layer by layer. Eventually, you end up with this:
Put the lid on the roaster and turn it on to 225, 235°F or so. Experiment as they may vary, I’m not sure how much quality control you get for $29.99. You do not want bubbles, you do want a healthy amount of smelly steam when you lift the lid.
Same with the roasting pan, although since you won’t be covering this, you need to check it often to make sure there is still enough water. Remember you want it well saturated, no scorching, so keep it filled almost up the first lip. I set my oven to 275°F but again, ymmv, as I think my oven may be a little cool. We’re always amazed at its ability to produce scorching hot control knobs and pies still cool in the middle. Add warm water as needed to keep the level up.
With the stockpot on the stovetop, there are a lot of ways you can play it and create different effects. Filling the pot with dye solution and water, immersing the skein and then turning on the heat will produce a more even coloration.
Placing the skein in the pot and painting it in the water and then turning on the heat will produce more variegated effects and muddling colors (not neccesarily a bad thing) and placing it in the water, turning on the heat waiting for setting temp (it varies fiber by fiber, generally around 210°F for wool, lower for silk. Hot enough to really steam, cool enough to not produce bubbles. The pot will creak and be on the edge of a boil, but no bubbles) and then painting it can produce some dramatic color effects. If you want to do this, make sure you have retied the skeins very loosely so you can open it up to paint inside it very gently. On my stove, I could call the right temperature setting around a three or four on a scale of 0-10, 10 being the roiling boil full flame, and 0 being off, of course.
As for how long these should go, I let it go until all dye is exhausted, waste not want not, don’tcha know.
You can check for exhaustion by gently pressing down on the fiber. Clear, or nearly clear water? There you go, it’s exhausted and should all be set in the fiber. Turn off the crockpot/oven/stockpot and let it cool completely before handling. For large quantities this can be overnight, as it may feel cool on top but still be setting (and hot) in the middle. Agitating hot fibers can produce felting. Don’t forget AHA–heat, agitation, alkalinity. Any two of these factors can produce felting. The stuff in the oven will cool off first.
My first wash is usually in lukewarm water, or a water temp that matches the dyebath.
I add a generous splash of vinegar to the water and gently place the fiber/yarn into the sink.
Gently swish it around and open it up. Only do so much at a time as can float without pressing down on the bottom. Let soak for five minutes, swish around gently again, gently pull it toward you away from the tap and the drain, let the water out.
Refill the sink with the water flowing in gently at the opposite side. You are minimising agitation here. If you let the dye exhaust, you won’t need much rinsing.
On the next repeat, measure in a little bit of your favorite soap, distribute it gently, let soak for ten or so minutes, drain and refill for a rinse. Squeeze, don’t wring, out excess water gently. You can use the washing machine’s spin cycle or a salad spinner to separate out more water, or just gently roll and squeeze in a towel, just like with a sweater. Lay out to air dry, usually flat, but with yarns and longer stapled fibers in roving form you can get away with hanging them out to dry.
Another fast and easy way to dye is by painting the skein or fiber with dye solution and then wrapping it up like a sausage or burrito (wrapping styles vary ;)) in plastic wrap (they sell extra wide plastic wrap now too) and steam setting the colors if you have a stockpot with a steam tray. Here you can let the water boil, of course. It’s harder to gauge when colors have exhausted, but this by far the quickest way to dye. Remember to let it cool down sufficiently before washing, as these things can be little hot pockets. This method is neat because as the air expands inside the plastic it is like a coccoon, which deflates when you let the steamy heat whoosh out as you check it.
A proper dye tutorial would have lots of pics of finished products at the end produced by the different methods.
*cough*
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05.22.04
Posted in Spaazlicious, Tutorials at 4:35 pm by wendy
Inspired by Jenifleur’s less than Macbethian [but still irking] predicament, I thought I’d post a quick pic heavy tutorial in washing yarn, because there’s no such thing as a stupid question unless it’s a question that can be answered by one minute of googling, and I looked for about ten minutes and didn’t find a good explanation of an easy method.
I could have sworn when I googled, that I’d seen a good online tutorial of washing wool yarn, but I must have been remembering images from these two handy sources:
The first (Twisted Sister’s…) is more about dyeing, but has detailed info about washing and drying. The Spinner’s Companion has info about using a niddy-noddy, yarn weights, washing, figure-eight ties, etc. Very handy resource for the beginning spinner.
It’s actually really easy to wash your wool. I do it all the time to get any spinning oil out and set the twist on my handspuns and it’s really no big deal. But you would want to be extra careful with 1375 yds of laceweight because untangling it would be a sonofabitch. The topic recently appeared on Techknit as well, (washing hemp in this case)and there are a lot of advantages to washing your yarn before you work it.
Anyway, here’s how I wash wool:
You need to put it in a skein. If it’s in a ball or on a bobbin you can make a skein by using a niddy-noddy, the funny looking thing on the right:
If you don’t have a niddy-noddy, it’s cool; you can use the back of a chair, or wind it around your elbow and thumb. You can also make your own niddy-noddy out of pvc pipe. The May 8th entry of As The Yarn Turns has great, simple instructions on how to make your own niddy noddy from PVC pipe. An unfinished Ashford niddy noddy is about twelve bucks, if you’re going to do much dyeing/spinning/washing you’ll probably want to invest in a niddy-noddy as I found elbow skeining a pain in the er, wrist.
So, it’s on the niddy noddy, or looking like a big loop, an untwisted skein:
You’ll want to secure it at at least four fairly equidistant points with a figure-eight tie. I like to use a yarn that stands out in a contrast colour. Some people don’t bother to do this, but it makes it easier for me and helps prevent tangling…and gives me something to do with those yarn scraps that are too long to really “just throw away,” but too short to really use as part of a scrap yarn thing.
Here’s how you do a figure eight tie:
Divide a section of the skein in half and thread the contrast yarn halfway through.
Wrap it around one side and push it through, you will have one end coming out one side, and another end coming out the other side of the skein
tie those loose ends together around the other half of the divided skein
Do this about three more times, around the skein, more times if you are dealing with a wily skein which has given you reason to believe it will try to tangle itself as soon as you immerse it…sometimes you just get that vibe…
Pop it off the niddy noddy. Or not, if you weren’t using a niddy noddy in the first place ;P
So, next step is to take it to the sink.
Obviously, you want to make sure your sink is clean and free of any harsh chemicals or icky foodstuffs you don’t want in your yarn.
Place yarn in sink, place plug in drain, move faucet to a position in the sink farthest away from the skein, and turn the water on. You’ll want the water as close to room temperature as possible.
When washing wool, it is important to not “shock” it in anyway, no rapid temperature changes, and no agitation–which is why you don’t run water right on to the skein unless you want it to tangle or mat. In the Twisted Sister’s she mentions the formula for felting–AHA, i.e., Alkalinity, Heat, and Agitation. Two of these together can produce felting.
So, I fill up my sink, and I rub a little bit of dishwashing liquid on my hands and foam it off in the stream of water. Dishwashing liquid does the job just fine, I like Trader Joe’s Lavender and Tea Tree Oil ‘cuz it smells good and it’s pretty mild, but other people swear by Dawn. I’m pretty sure it’s all pretty much the same:
If you’ve got a stain, or you’re concerned about the dye in the yarn, you can add some vinegar. About two tablespoons per gallon. Trust me, you’ll be rinsing it and it won’t smell like salad dressing or cat piss. I promise. The vinegar will help break down soils or oils and add acidity as extra insurance against felting.
Squeeze the skein gently under the water to ensure saturation and let it soak for a little bit.
At this point, it’s about your preference.
When I’m washing after dyeing, I let it soak for about five minutes, then gently spread the skein under the water, sort of spreading out the yarn, handling it only where the skein is tied. If I didn’t figure8, it tangles, but I am “a dictionary definition of the word spaastic,” after all. [Beastie Boys “Professor Booty”]
Then, I pull the plug, and as the water’s draining, I gently squeeze the water from the skein. Keeping the skein pushed against the opposite side from the faucet, with the plug in the drain, I let in fresh water, gently squeezing the skein to ensure saturation.
You repeat this until the water is clear, and there isn’t any more soap or dye running from the skein.
Drain, gently squeeze as much water out as you can against the side of the sink, and lift out by the figure8 ties, holding them at opposite ends so the weight of the wet yarn is fairly equally distributed.
Next, you have a few options.
Some people put skeins in their washing machine on the spin cycle to get even more water expelled from it. When you take it out, it will feel almost dry.
I was too lazy too walk down my stairs and past the garage to the laundry room, so I just held one end of the skein in my hand securely and whipped it around my head like a bull roarer. Then I switched hands and ends and did it again. Don’t do it inside as the skein will lengthen and you might end up hitting something (or someone) with a wet whipping skein. My dogs think it’s pretty neat when I do this, like a high mild sprinkler on the deck, and I feel like a wild woman.
If it’s fairly early in the day, and a nice day, you can just put a hand inside it on either side and stretch (like a quick wet block) hang one end on a plastic clothes hanger with another plastic hanger at the bottom and a very light weight on the hanger and hang it outside. Preferably not in direct sunlight, in case it heats up too quickly:
In this case, the light weight was a dog toy, which the dogs had shown no interest in until I hung it up, so while I type, there is actually a pair of my running shoes hanging from it, as I didn’t want them to pull it down by their toy.
Some caution against using a weight, as it can stress the yarn and overstretch it so it loses its bounce. I’ve never used anything heavier than a pair of shoes, and never had a problem with stressed, overstretched, or bounceless yarn. YMMV, as they say.
Other people dry their yarn in the skein like they dry their sweaters, squeezing out excess moisture by rolling it in a towel and then laying it out in some well aired place to dry.
Whatever you can get away with.
Okay, so I hope that was helpful at least to one or two people out there. Some people may say, “well, that’s like, duh…so obvious.” But I don’t think it really is. We all have to learn some time, and it is really easy to end up with a tangled felted mess if you’re just fartin’ around.
And I suppose, to others, with all the pictures and description, it might seem like a big hassle, but even with doing a load of dishes, and cleaning out the sink so I could wash yarn in it, making the skein and taking pictures of the process, it only took twenty minutes.
If you do more than one skein at a time, it’s the same, but for drying you might want to use one of those multple clothes hanger thingies like this one I bought at Target:
Good luck, and have fun.
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